Monday, 19 January 2015

PART 1 AUSTRALIA... NAIVE BUT EXCITED

PART 1 - AUSTRALIA

Definitely a bit trickier with the added weight, but I couldn't help myself.

On the 10th of January 2015 I left Perth for my 2 year motorcycle journey around the world, first destination Darwin, NT Australia! My good mate Tom joined me for these first 4500 km and we departed in the morning with a massive entourage of motorcycles, friends, family saying farewell... it was an incredible feeling. On the first day we travelled 560 km and set up camp in ‘the granites’. This was just beyond Mt Magnet, a mining town set up in the 1880’s.

First day tripod testing
Cooking tuna and rice on the first night at the Granites
The following morning we traveled 617 km to Newman, vast barren landscapes with intense side winds accompanied us for these first two days. On the way to Newman Tom’s Harley decided to shut down in the small town of Meekatharra which involved us tearing away at its electrics in the 35 degree midday sun. That night we stayed in the Newman caravan park, interestingly this town was only built just over 50 years ago, again due to mining. Here we met a wonderful couple from Broome on their way South for their daughters birthday.

Day 3 was a short 200 km ride into Karijini national park for a day filled with hiking, climbing and swimming. That night sleeping under the stars again and met a wonderful family as neighbours. Average temperature so far 32 degrees with hardly a cloud in the sky, perfect.
Beautiful Pilbara views
Karijini hiking

Day 4 was planned for more hiking but due to recent rains the rest of the Karijini gorges were closed and we decided to continue on travelling 690 km up through Port Hedland and on to the Sandfire Roadhouse. The day was hot, filled with road trains and our very first rain, but it was refreshing and we pined for more.
Port Hedland, hot hot hot
Just after our first bit of rain, 30 seconds of refreshing bliss

Flooded National parks forced us to continue on to a drier camp site
After a sleepless night, thanks to peacocks and generators, we moved on for a half days ride to Broome 321 km ahead. We were welcomed with palm trees, long beaches and an unmistakeable holiday feel. We set up tents and prepared to head for the pool. Unfortunately this is when I noticed my indicators were no longer working and my bike had developed a serious oil leak so instead of relaxing that day the bike was stripped and the oil leak fixed... then I wanted to swim, so the indicators had to wait for Darwin. Pool followed by pizzas and drinks on the beach rounded off the day and relaxed us perfectly for the long, hot, humid days ahead.

Sandfire road house, middle of no where!
Sleep in, swim in the pool, fuel up and we’re back on the road riding 500 km to a free camp halfway to Kununurra. Thunder storms in the distance, a view that reminded me of an African savannah and the mild evening made a perfect camp spot... or so we thought. Everything was amazing here until around 11 PM when we were woken by a car full of aboriginals arriving late yelling at one another and carrying on about our motorbikes. Finally there was quiet again, if only for a few minutes before the wind started. At first the breeze was very welcome, a short respite from the stifling night heat... and then the rain, thunder and storms began. Frantically we shot out of our tents to re-tie knots, secure rain covers and waterproof leaky areas. Intense doesn’t even begin to describe this night, 2-3 hours being all we managed to get sleep.

Broome maintenance and tinkering
Stunning sunsets, pizzas and beach relaxing... amazing after a few days of riding
I guess my bike is just a motorised camel
Having a thrash around, hoping the oil leak doesn't return
Selfie time
Stunning camp location outside of Fitzroy Crossing, almost at Halls Creek
No words
5 AM we were up due to our noisy neighbours, but that was alright.. it meant an early morning on the road with us riding into the sunrise by 7 AM after coffees and liquid breakys. This day had us cover 700 km past Kununurra and into the Northern Territory of Australia. Winding, hilly roads through lush green expanses of land made the day fly by with incredible views and pure joy. The pictures just cannot capture the colours playing in the sky and across the green landscape. Temperature still around 33 degrees, however real feel of around 40. Another free camp in the rain that night, albeit with a lot more sleep.. life was good and we were 2 days ride from Darwin where friends, showers and air con await!

Cockatoo Bridge, the first river with water in it!
Perfect, beautiful roads... a dream to ride
Day 8 and we were off early again flying along the 130 km/h limit roads, although they were rough and with winds we were a tad slower. We made it roughly 200 km that morning when we came across the biggest obstacle of our trip so far. The roads had flooded overnight with over 900 mm height in some areas, and it wasn’t just flooded... it was flowing fast. After waiting on the side of the road for about 3-4 hours with other travellers it was finally getting low enough to attempt the crossing. A big thank you to Jim and Barb who allowed us to follow in their caravans wake and made sure we made it safely, absolute legends!
Another amazing camp location

Kununurra fuel and food stop before the rains came in
Our plans changed a lot this day considering flood delays, Toms bike stalling in some water crossings and my bikes starter no longer firing. From here onwards Tom kindly push started my bike for the last 1000 km leg to Darwin. That night we free camped again and guess who turns up at the same spot, Jim and Barb! After drinking Jim’s beer and enjoying their great company we had a good sleep ready for the last 400 km up to Darwin.

Hiding from the rain
The first of many water crossings on the road
Tom pushing his bike across one flooded section after it stalled halfway across, hilarious
The 9th day we set off at a leisurely pace passing through Cadel Evans’ birth town and were hoping for a swim at Edith falls, due to the flooding the pools were closed as crocodiles may have made their way in, so we continued on and arrived at Brenton and Ashlea’s home that afternoon with a fantastic BBQ and a drink (or 6) in their beautiful green backyard.

Stretching our legs

GANGgajang - Sounds Of Then (This Is Australia)  totally sums up the past few days

This first entry can hardly begin to describe the moments experienced on this 4500 km leg of the journey. It’s impossible to describe the stifling heat, humidity, sore arses which transitioned into ideal nights, stunning vistas and an incredible sense of accomplishment. Some quick facts to finish off the first part: $395 spent on fuel, $40 spent on food, $40 spent on accommodation and $100 of alcohol. I’m now as I’m typing here in Darwin awaiting my passport, parts for my bike and shipping information for the next part through East Timor and Indonesia.


Oil leaks, starter problems, more stuff to take care of before shipping to Timor Lest

A final photo of us entering the Northern territory

Trip to date