Sunday, 18 October 2015

CYCLING FROM FRANCE TO SPAIN - JUMPING IN THE DEEP END

I think I need to start off this blog with an answer to the question: WHY? 

Why or what would make someone decide to get on a bicycle and use it as a method for travel? Personally the motivation behind this idea had been slowly growing since I met a round the world cyclist ‘Nigel’ from the UK in Indonesia... that was when the idea was nothing more than an insane after-thought that would definitely never happen. But since then I heard of more of these crazy dudes and even read a very inspiring blog from another British guy who has cycled 80,000 km around the world in 6 years. That's when some serious questions started floating around in my mind... “would I be able to do something like that?” ... “what does it take to achieve such a feat?” ... “where is my personal limit?” I like a challenge and once I started to contemplate the prospect I became obsessed wondering if I had what it took to undertake a cycle journey (even just a small one). I had to be realistic and stay within my time and budget so I decided on cycling through France and attempt to reach Portugal.

The first and only test ride I had time for... what could go wrong!


Keeping budget in mind since I still have many months of motorbike travel planned for the Americas I borrowed a mountain bike off my uncle and bought a 99 euro ebay trailer to hook on the back. In this I packed my usual travel gear including my tent, sleeping bag and gas burner... however I added a small solar panel in order to charge my phone whilst touring since it was doubling as my navigation device. Next up I booked a cheap flight to Paris from Frankfurt and for 55 euro the bike joined me! Flying with a bicycle varies airline to airline however in my case I got a box from a local bike dealer (for free) and dismantled the pedals, handle bar and front wheel, easy as that.

The solar panel in action later down the track... it was priceless on this trip!


Before leaving home I loaded OSM (open street maps) onto my phone. These are free open source offline maps and come with all the positives and negatives of open source information! Time to jump into the deep end! To explain that last statement. I am not a cyclist. The furthest I have ever cycled is 40 km about 3 years ago and that was a "one off", this past year I have been riding a motorbike soaking in different cultures but struggled to maintain a fitness routine (i.e.. non-existent). So this was going to be interesting!

4pm, Monday the 28th of September I landed in Paris and by 6pm I had assembled my bike and begun the 47 km ride in to the city centre... usually on the first day everything that can go wrong will, and this trip was no exception. Within the first 25 km my rear axel bent and fell apart, it was one of those make or break moments and it happened in the first 2 hours just as the sun was setting! Luckily I managed to do a botch repair on it (bent it straight and loctite the quick release) and I cycled on in the dark arriving in the outskirts of the city by 9 pm.

The only road leaving the airport! One of the worst experiences ever.

Broken already, it would have been easy to call it quits right here.


It was a great feeling entering the city, Paris has a reputation for being a beautiful city for a reason. But that was all short lived as I began peddling uphill and a dark figure casually stepped out in front of me grabbing my arm, as I turn I realize there are 3 more grasping at me and the bike... I won’t lie, my mind panicked but luckily some sort of instinct kicked in and I stood up, yelled at the top of my lungs and peddled that bike as hard as I could. Some how I broke through and was free. What a welcome to the city, I was shaking. After cycling past roughly 25 prostitutes and 4 drug dealers roaming the quiet parks I arrived at the city campsite at 11 pm... totally knackered and it wasn’t even day 1!

Sunset in the outer suburbs of Paris, fixing the trailer...


With a low of 3 degrees the first night I was up early trying to get warm in the hot showers. After that a quick tour of the city before leaving around 2 pm and managing 49 km for the day. I spent the night camping on the edge of a farm, I just asked politely in my best French. Which involved a lot of miming but he seemed happy for me to sleep there... must have noticed that I had no idea what I was doing!

I guess I had to since I was here...

Farm camping! It has been so rewarding taking the first step and asking.


In the first 5 days I covered 595 km which consisted of several 100 km days and one 140 km day which isn't huge in cycling terms but the trailer was like a 10 kg anchor and it required a lot of tinkering to keep it working on the offroad tracks I was taking. Night time temperatures were usually around 2 degrees which was bloody FREEZING! Day time temps of 15 to 20 Celsius were absolutely ideal.

Nice and flat, but windy! Many European countries have quite a lot of wind and solar energy.

You don't get to choose when you have a flat tire!

Stealth camping in the middle of a town... getting up early to pack away before the dog walkers come by!


My days consisted of cycling, eating and drinking... there was almost no time for anything else. An example of my daily intake:

- 5 litres water
- 2 litres juice
- A coffee
- 2 croissants
- 2 baguettes
- Some kind of cake
- 6 bananas
- 500 g fish
- Bowl of rice

Then at night I would stealth camp, however I was extremely careful as hunting season had started and I did not want to end up like the recent French guy that was mistaken for a wild boar. That meant edges of forests usually bordering on beaches. This made for ideal scenery but also difficult to hide!

About 15 % of the bike trails I took were unpaved.

Another stealth camp along the way...

Slow going, averaging only 10 km/h on this stuff.



After this first stage I definitely hit the wall physically and mentally especially as the head winds picked up as I neared the coast. To recuperate I had a day off in La Rochelle but the following day I only managed 40 km in 4 hours due to the stormy weather which had just hit the entire western coast. I was stuck for 3 days. This gave me time to reflect on the last week which had been the biggest learning curve of my life, from door knocking twice a day for water to navigation issues and ending up in the middle of an enduro motorbike race...as well as what it had taught me about myself, unintentional character building!

Nutritious breakfast. It was difficult to eat enough!

Arrival in La Rochelle, what a feeling!

One day rest and then straight into this... everything was soaked!

High spirits... before the rain came back!


After the storm subsided and only drizzle remained I pushed on with all my stuff smelling like peppermint tea... in the rain my teabags had gotten soaked and imparted their deliciousness with all of my belongings, but hey I wasn’t complaining (it was just weird)! The entire West coast of France reminded me so much of home albeit slightly denser populated. Sunsets over the ocean, white sandy beaches with gnarly barrels (international surf competitions happening), pine trees, snakes and surf boards everywhere!

Waiting in the morning for this interesting bridge to open...

Beautiful cycle paths along the coast, looks like Perth!

Detouring to find a lunch spot...

Aaaaaand found one!

It's not a real adventure until there's a ferry involved!
 
It was all going well until one of these rascals crawled into the gears of the bike, since then it was never the same!

When in doubt follow the train tracks!

Back to more trails through pine forests, seriously am I in Western Australia???

Amazing campsite that night... although I was woken in the middle of the night by a wild horse. Probably one of the scariest moments of my life!


My time in France was absolutely amazing and that really came down to their epic organisation in terms of cycle routes and the FOOD, oh the food... especially the bakeries had the best pastries I've ever had. So good! But after 1072 km I reached the Spanish border which was a rad milestone in itself. Time had practically run out for what I had planned for this trip and so after 1098 km I ended this cycle journey in San Sebastian (foothills of the Spanish Pyrenees).

Setting up the solar panel in the morning sunlight.

Making my way back to the trails...

Over 100 km of cycle paths like this, I couldn't believe it!

Waking up to the crack of your tent breaking is not the best... especially when it's pouring outside!

Fixed the tent and got an early start to the day...

Luckily I was rewarded that night with another awesome surf beach/river mouth.

I wonder when the next time will be that I see these figures...

More nutricious breakfasts... need more energy! 

The VELO cycle path goes from the UK all the way to the Spanish border, it is truly a great ride.

The struggle is real... damn trailer again!

Arrival in Spain!

The last bits of the cycle path before it disappeared, beautiful coastal towns!

Beach art in San Sebastian!

Goodbye bicycle... didn't quite make it to Portugal but I wasn't going to achieve 1200 km in 5 days.



That's it! I rode from Paris to San Sebastian in 15 days where 4 were spent waiting out the storm. That's an average of 73.2 km per day or 99.8 km per day only including the ones I actually rode. With a cadence of roughly 70 rpm I think the pedals made about 400,000 revolutions on this trip (massive guestimate). I spent most days charging my phone for one hour using the solar panel and that charged it 30%, for navigation the phone lost between 30-50% charge daily... that meant I could go about 4 days without an extra power source. Also interestingly the daily costs averaged to 15 euros, pretty much identical to motorcycle travel! But I'm sure you could cut that down the more hard core you get... but that was my comfort limit. On my final day I sent the bike back to Germany with a courier service and donated the trailer to a homeless man outside the hostel (and no I didn't take a selfie or a video of that).

Typical cycle paths through French cities.

An ipod is a good thing to have along for the journey!


It will probably be a few years before I get the chance to do something like this again but when I do I will do it in a drier season, use a touring bike with panniers and not set an end goal... just go with the flow! It's been amongst the most challenging and rewarding experiences I've ever had.

Final night in San Sebastian, that night I caught the train to Lisbon... for more adventures!




Saturday, 15 August 2015

SUZUKI DR650 MAINTENANCE & MODIFICATIONS (FIRST 40,000 KM)

This entry is going to serve as an extensive maintenance log for my Suzuki DR650 including modifications made before and during the trip. I bought the bike almost new with 1,500 Km on the odometer and the first official service had just been completed by the dealer (2010 model). From here the modifications began...

The previous owner had been so good to already...

-          Beef up the suspension with a heavier rear spring (Procycle blue) and intimidators in the front.
-          Installed a touring screen.
-          Added Bark-busters.
-          Mounted a B&B bash-plate.
-          FMF exhaust pipe.
-          Counter-shaft retaining seal.
-          And some Renthal bars.

The bike also had slightly altered gearing with a larger rear sprocket (lower top speed).

Picking up my baby with only 1,500 k's on the clock!


Before the trip I sold my car and used just the bike for a few months bringing the kilometre stand up to 6,000 Km. In that time I installed the following modifications:

-          30 L safari tank (in the meantime it holds around 34 L).
-          Tank filter sock.
-          Happy trail rack and panniers.
-          Wolfman tank bag.
-          Wolfman side bags.
-          Wolfman fender pouch.
-          Braided brake lines front and rear (totally unnecessary for overland travel).
-          Garmin GPS.
-          12V socket and 5V USB charging ports.
-          Go cruise throttle lock.
-          Procycle seat with sheep-skin.
-          Extended fuel screw (carb idle).
-          Tool-tube (to carry my tool kit).
-          Scott oiler (chain lubricating system).
-          Heavy duty tubes front and rear.
-          Magnetic sump plug.
-          Motech centre stand (extremely useful for ferries).

So shiny and clean... we'll have to take care of that...

The first shakedown for the bike and gear, here I learnt I wouldn't be riding around the world with a backpack!



Before departure the following maintenance was conducted (odo stood at 6,000 Km):
-          Oil & filter change.
-          NSU screw loctite.
-          Air filter clean.
-          Valve clearance check.
-          General checks on all working parts.

Practicing changing tires with the small tool kit I would be taking on the trip.

Final shakedown trip with my dad, just a few days before departure.


At odometer stand of 8,500 Km the counter-shaft seal failed and I replaced it with a spare in a campsite whilst still in Australia. At 9,000 Km the starter switch failed along with 2 indicators and I push started the bike until I reached Darwin, 10,500 Km. Here I replaced it with a new genuine switch from Suzuki ($120) and 2 new indicators.

Whilst my mate Tom frolicked around in the pool I was doing repairs in the 35 degree heat!

Testing to make sure the counter-shaft seal had stopped leaking. With a Domino's pizza strapped to the back!


Maintenance conducted in Darwin at 10,500 Km:

-          Oil & filter change.
-          New front brake pads.
-          Air filter clean.
-          General checks on all working parts.

Using my mate Brenton's car port for maintenance.


Odo stand 12,800 Km (Indonesia), the original trail wing rear tire was absolutely flogged and I replaced it with a brand new D606 knobby off road tire. Odo stand 14,000 the front brake pads were toast (that’s right, lasted only 3,500 Km in Indonesia), metal on metal... improvised by cutting down car brake pads and adapting them to my calipers.

DIY in Asia is usually the safest way about it...

My new car brake pads... from now on I'm carrying spares!


Kilometre stand at 16,000 the following maintenance was conducted (Malaysia):

-          Oil change.
-          New front brake pads.
-          Air filter clean.
-          Lubricated and cleaned all moving cables and joints.
-          General checks on all working parts.

In Malaysia the first thing was a BIG clean!


Here I bought new front and rear tires and carried them on-wards planning on mounting them in Myanmar (another few thousand K’s away). By now the USB charging ports had stopped working and I was using USB adaptors with the 12V socket.

At 18,000 Km I replaced the front sprocket (still original rear sprocket and chain) and at 20,000 Km an oil and filter change. At 24,000 Km the front brake line developed a hole as it rubbed against the front brake disc. 25,000 Km I replaced the front brake line with an aftermarket one sourced in Delhi (India).

New front sprocket, going with the 2 fronts to 1 rear chain wear strategy.

Front brake line failed since the braided line was able to move and got caught on the disc brake.


25,000 Km maintenance conducted:

-          Oil change.
-          Air filter clean.
-          Replaced front and rear tires with brand new ones (Front had lasted 25,000, rear 9,000).
-          Replaced front wheel bearings (the wheel had started to wobble, totally wrecked from mud).
-          General checks on all working parts.

Without these guys I'd probably still be in India looking for a brake line!


At 26,000 Km the horn stopped working, which I replaced at 27,000 Km in Lahore (Pakistan). And around the 30,000 Km mark the top plastic chain guard snapped off which I have not replaced since.

33,000 Km maintenance conducted:

-          Oil & filter change.
-          New front brake pads.
-          General checks on all working parts.

The bike also acts as a washing line, chopping board and dinner table most nights!

Replacing my brake pads in Iran, this was a rad campsite!


Around 35,000 Km a taxi rear-ended me in Istanbul (Turkey) and bent the rack and panniers which I fixed later on in Germany.

If you look closely you'll notice the right pannier is bent inwards and is totally on the piss!


38,000 Km maintenance conducted:

-          New set of chain and sprockets (front and rear, back to standard gearing).
-          Replaced rear wheel and hub bearings (just a precaution).
-          Replaced the front brake line with an original Suzuki line.
-          New spark plugs (just a precaution).
-          New fuel lines and fuel filters (the Safari lines were cracking).
-          Rear rack bent back in place and welded.
-          Carburetor stripped and cleaned (float bowl had gotten stuck twice on the journey).
-          Air filter clean.
-          Lubrication of all cables and moving parts.
-          Valve clearance check (all perfect still).
-          General checks on all working parts.

I was lucky to get a lot of help fixing the bike once in Germany!

Doing as much as possible at once... that way South America will hopefully go relatively smoothly.

Surprisingly clean for 40,000 km but a good clean has done wonders.


40,000 Km maintenance conducted (prior shipment to South America):

-          New front and rear Heidenau K60 tires (Trail wings - Front was at 50% and rear had lasted 15,000 Km).
-          Oil & filter change.
-          New front fender (purely for sexiness).

A few things that I will do before shipping if time permits:

-          Rear shock service (re-gas and fresh oil).
-          Re-grease swing-arm and steering head bearings.
-          Cut and weld foot pegs to lower them by 1 inch.

That’s where I am currently at, with the second leg of the journey I am expecting to cover another 40,000 Km so it will be interesting to see if the piston and rings last the entire trip! To summarise a little...

Tires: The original Trail Wings lasted front: 25,000 Km and rear 12,800 Km. The rear D606 then lasted 12,200 Km (fantastic for a knobby). The next rear Trail Wing lasted 15,000 Km and the front was prematurely changed out for Heidnau K60’s. I rode with Trail Wings for most of the journey as in Asia you can’t be that picky with tire types (ie. I had no choice)!

The original chain lasted 38,000 Km with the front sprocket changed out at 18,000 Km, it was well and truly rooted by that point.

Brake pads: Front changed at 10,500, 14,000 (car pads), 16,000, 33,000 Km. Rear are still the original ones.

I’ll do another one of these at the end of the trip but hopefully that gives some insight into the maintenance required for the DR650. I chose the bike for its simplicity and I wouldn’t have it any other way for an overland journey through remote and under-developed countries! (There is obviously other bikes that are just as good for this and the maintenance will be similar.)

Some additional remarks for the wear and tear of the bike. It is loaded with a total of 25-30 Kg on the rear (that includes the weight of the panniers) and is far heavier when full of fuel (an additional 20 Kg over stock). On the other hand I only weigh ~70 Kg so the bike is definitely not over-laden. The engine has had a relatively easy life considering it has not had many cold starts however all the running gear has been exposed to extremely bad roads and lots of dusty conditions due to all the camping and exploration ‘detours’ I have done along the way!

The most amazing places were usually away from the cities and highways...

Wrong tires, fully loaded... but a whole lot of fun! Crossing Iran..



Hoping for many more wonderful K’s with my beautiful donkey!