Monday 23 March 2015

SUMATRA - BREAKDOWNS, JUNGLE AND SHIPS

2000 KM more from Bandar Lampung up to Medan, with the ship leaving tomorrow


Before arriving on Sumatra I was promised by Java locals that I would easily average 100 KM/H all day across the island (1800 KM’s). I was pretty damn excited about this! How wrong I had been to believe...

First impressions of Sumatra shows lots of Palm trees and greenery, exciting! At first...


I left Bandar Lampung early, with beautiful weather and roads in decent condition, after several kilometres the rain began and from here it all went downhill. This days 360 KM took over 7 hours, average speed 50 KM/H. The roads were in a total state of disrepair, non-existent in locations and horrendous everywhere else (I believe the technical term is: fucked). Mixed in with the condition of the roads was the huge trucks and buses, one slow vehicle overtaking an even slower vehicle everywhere. A lot of off road overtaking was done by me that day! At night I stayed in Palembang and had an interesting experience the following morning.

This is the highway I can go 100 KM/H on??!!

As I went to leave in the morning the lock had jammed shut, lucky I had my leather-man!


The following morning I set off for Jambi, a city/region where the Javanese had said was full of cannibals! This had me slightly worried. It looked very run down with little to no supermarkets. Upon Googling I found no evidence of cannibals, maybe something was lost in translation... The ride was ‘interesting’ to say the least. With the roads similar to the following day I found myself in quite a few exciting moments – I was fuming at the time, but upon reflection it has become comical.

HATI-HATI ("take care")... the skull and cross bones was a nice touch I thought!

Road side fires everywhere, and palm oil plantation, devastation for 100's of KM's the entire day - Google for more info, it's horrendous!


Event #1: Leaving the city in the morning I was waiting at the traffic lights when SMASH a scooter came flying into the side of my bike hitting behind my legs straight into a pannier. The lights went green and I rode off leaving the scooter behind with all of his plastics broken on the front. Later I realised my bike didn’t even have a scratch.

Event #2: To set the scene... I was cruising along the highway at 80 KM/H (the road that was occasionally good with very bad sections). I started to overtake a truck when a scooter loaded with chickens decided to overtake me at the same time, once he got in front of me he noticed that there was a giant pothole (like Marianas trench) in our path... he braked as hard as he could (I had a mini heart attack, I can’t stop that quick!) but it was too late, CRASH he ploughed through the devastated section of road... bits of engine, gearbox, all sorts of metallic parts came flying out from underneath him along with chicken  feathers everywhere. He pulled off to the side of the road, bike obviously totalled while I continued on no dramas. That was scary!

Getting artsy with my photos! Yum cheese sandwich


Roughly 100 KM from my destination I noticed that my front brakes were making some strange noises and they also had a ‘grindy’ feel to them. Upon inspection it was obvious, my brake pads were gone, literally down to the metal. Not only dangerous, but also a slight problem... I don’t have spare ones. Riding with just a rear brake I made it safely to a hotel. That night I slept in Jambi falling asleep to the distant sound of thunderstorms, the brakes were tomorrow’s problem.

Really filthy and begging for some TLC... soon!


I was woken at 5 AM by a knock on my door, after opening up it was room service with breakfast... did I order this in my sleep??? Nope, just the usual 5 AM free breakfast. OK I’ll roll with it, although spicy rice isn’t my favourite morning meal. That morning the most important thing was my bikes brakes! I waited until 8 AM before heading into town and stopped at several auto, bike and machine shops each time using bad Indonesian and charades to explain my problem. By 9 AM I found a Suzuki dealer that before I could even say anything had disassembled my front brake, cool! Now they obviously don’t have the right parts for me (my bike is way too big!) and no other parts would work. So I asked if there was a way for them to cut some other ones down and make it fit, I only had 1000 KM to go and I could get the right parts from Malaysia. $7.50 later and I was now riding with cut down car brake pads on my bike, pretty average braking... but it WORKED!

Wrecked!

How many Suzuki mechanics does it take? Haha

My new car brake pads, $7.50 for parts... free labour and coffee!


The brakes were ‘repaired’ by 1030 AM and I set off on the longest distance I would cover in a single day in Indonesia... 450 KM and 9 gruelling hours later I arrived in Pekanbaru, soaked, sore and entirely drained... it was time to catch some z’s!

Today was a wet day...

Shortly after crossing the equator... sad I didn't take the route with the big sign!


 Waking up to thunderstorms and rain was not the most promising start when 350 KM of crappy road and biking were the day’s agenda, but I ate my cereal and packed up ready to push on. After a few hours the rain cleared and I made reasonably good time. This day was filled with close calls, on-coming, overtaking traffic had me doing emergency braking several times an hour... not nice! My bad mood after the ride was immediately cured when the hotel gave me a 20% discount, no idea why but I suspect because of my good looks and charm! After a $2 dinner I began making plans for the shipping, national parks and the Malaysia flight ahead of me.

You ride along thinking of what can happen when there is babies and children on these bikes... Absolutely sickening to see a baby involved in this one. Happened 50 m in-front of me and of course only 1 helmet out of 5!


After a hot, but reasonably short ride I had finally arrived in Medan! This was the city 20 KM from the port that harbours my ship to Malaysia. I stayed at JJ’s Guesthouse which had the absolute friendliest welcome and a pretty awesome atmosphere. Here I met another round the world rider, Matt who has been underway for over 2 years!

Legendary secured parking! This man knows how to make bikers happy


Friday morning I called my shipping agent Mr Adnan and made my way to Belawan to meet him in his ‘office’ (It’s a small house). Monday 10 AM was locked in to drop off my bike and begin the paperwork, woo-hoo! From here I started the ‘short’ 100 KM ride to Bukit Lawang, a popular trekking, wildlife and rafting location. What should have taken 2 hours ended up taking over 5! Almost halfway, there had been a huge truck collision blocking all 4 lanes of the highway, here in the stop start traffic I pulled over as my bike was overheating... after trying to get going again the starter wouldn’t crank, same problem I had in Australia! From here I pushed my bike out of the traffic and began the road side maintenance, all the while telling myself “trust me I’m an engineer” (not electrical though!)... I wasn’t completely useless and after 20 minutes of tinkering it started again, SUCCESS! By now I was drenched in sweat, hungry and totally hating everything so I pulled into an Indomart and ate an ice-cream.. happy again! After arriving in Bukit Lawang I arranged an overnight trek for the following day.

Mr Adnan's office, co-ordinates 3.78060, 98.68528 for anyone trying to find!

Break-down in the middle of a traffic jam... hot, exhausted and not enjoying electrical problems!

Bukit Lawang, the bridge leading to my hotel (right). Creak creak creak, will it hold?


I cannot recommend this trek enough, 14 wild orang-utans, toucans, gibbons, funky monkeys and many more jungle flora and fauna were seen and some awesome climbing and rafting back into the village on day 2. All with some hilarious guides and a chilled group.

Our guide holding a giant ant, seconds before putting it in his mouth

Rubber trees, harvested to make shoes, condoms, etc... pretty neat

Selfie with a wild baby orangutan!

Waking up on day 2 of the trek, first up.. swimming!

The fully grown prime apes were a little more intimidating

Rafting back to the village with this monkey, Francis!



I’m now back in Medan after having dropped my bike at the port this morning, it had been a 4 AM start to leave Bukit Lawang and make it to the ship on time. I am pretty tired and looking forward to relaxing in Penang for a few days whilst I wait for the ship. The plan is to fix my brakes and do some general maintenance on the bike before heading through Thailand and into Myanmar! Oh and it’s been over 10,000 KM since I left Perth, woo... milestone!

Finally getting some washing done again... well, letting it get done

Milestones feel great, and best of all it's the last ship for a long time!

Saturday 14 March 2015

JAVA - LOVE / HATE RELATIONSHIP

 Time to leave Bali behind and make my way across Java! In the morning I said goodbye to Moritz who is waiting for his bike to arrive in Darwin (good luck mate!) and also good bye to Lupi (super nice owner of Palma’s B&B). That arvo I arrived at Bali’s Western port, pre checkpoint pay 10 cents to get a ticket that allows me to move forward to the police checkpoint. Here police ask for licence and registration, no problemo! So I hand them my international licence and he immediately says “this not international”... well yes it is mate. So I politely told him it is legit and that he should know that. Next my rego’, clever me had packed it away with my other documents.. so 10 minutes of unpacking on the road side later and I produce my registration papers that I’d printed in Bali 2 days earlier! The officer looked at them, handed them around to about 5 other officers and after a lot of ummm’ing and aaaaah’ing I was told to get on the ferry, another $3.90 later for the ferry ticket and the bike was on it’s 6th ship for the trip.


The last 1600 KM over the past few days, Java's traffic and roads are insane - average speed 40 KM/H

Another tedious ferry (15 minutes to cross and another 45 minutes waiting in the port... all whilst having a million photos taken with the other passengers) and I was on my way to Ijen, the first active volcano I would visit on Java. Upon arrival in the evening I tried to stay in a guest house at the start of the climb, alas there was none.. and they wouldn't let me camp there! So I rode 15 KM further to Arabica guest house in a nearby town.

The following morning I woke up to my alarm at 1 AM, that’s right 1 AM! The idea was to beat the tour groups to the base of the volcano, as I left the guest house I could hear the guides waking their clients. Ijen is home to the world’s largest acidic crater lake – 950 x 600 m, sits at a height of 2799 m with a 4 KM hike from the base at 2250 m. Sulfur miners make the climb every day earning roughly 7 USD per load (most manage 2 per day) carrying loads of around 70-80 KG out of the crater and down the active volcano.

A picture of the miner who loaned me a gas mask

After an extremely foggy ride to the base I was denied access, apparently whilst it’s raining no-one is allowed up (funny that I still saw miners coming and going). 1 hour later and it was 2:45 AM and the gates opened.. I hid in amongst a tour group to try and sneak in without a ticket ($10) but they saw me and sent me back to get one... damn! The reason I tried to avoid this was mainly to save money, but I hadn't felt bad as the rumours say that there’s one guy that just pockets all the cash and none goes towards conservation ETC, this is Indonesia so it’s quite likely. So I grabbed a ticket and raced back to the start, by now about 30 people were ahead of me. But it was a 4 KM hike with over 500 m of altitude to gain. YAY for competitiveness! I smashed out the hike to the rim of the crater in around 55 minutes (without a guide and in my boots and all my gear) and was the first one at the top besides the miners that were already there. I followed one of them into the crater and gave a small tip to borrow a gas mask (the sulfur smoke is not only toxic, but makes breathing extremely difficult even with the mask!) I was in the crater enjoying the blue flames for about 15 minutes before more tourists rocked up, but by now my eyes were stinging and with tears down my face I climbed back out of the crater to a viewpoint in order to get a sunrise photo of the volcano.

Sulfur being mined quite literally with a pickax - the labour being done here is out of this world

Blue flames from within the volcano's crater (I have a mate sending me a better picture - UPDATE will come soon) - GOOGLE IT for now, it's so awesome!

Sunrise, bloody weather ruined it... I still hiked around the rim of the volcano, freezing!

By 7 AM I was back at the base and by 9:30 AM I was leaving the guest house with the rest of my belongings. Around 4 PM I arrived at the next volcano, Mt Bromo. This active volcano sits at 2329 m altitude and last killed 2 people in its 2002 eruption, since then it’s erupted 2 more times.

Visibility? Yeh NO, riding back to the hotel to get all my gear

Absolutely radical mountain roads on the way back, makes for slow progress though! And watch out for TRUCKS

Heading up to Bromo, such a spectacular road

Taken 10 seconds after the picture above, insane fog

Entry here costs a ridiculous $30, not to mention the Jeeps you have to rent if you don’t bring your own vehicle. However! Here I got lucky, as I approached the gate to the national park it was slightly open allowing some locals through so I just kept going... with some yelling from the gate keeper I never looked back and just opened the throttle, Bromo was AMAZING. By 8 PM that night I was at Kampong Tourist in Malang, staying in the dorm for 5 bucks – immediately racked out, totally knackered.

The town before Bromo, about to fly through the ticket gate

10 minutes after I dodged the entry fee I come across ol' mate blocking my path, I'm thinking shit shit shit get out of the way!

Seriously spectacular, imagine this with good weather!

The off-road riding here was so sick, stoked that I fitted the new rear tire!

Magical, 6 KM sea of sand surrounding the volcano

My baby looking sexy as ever, in her natural habitat


I could have spent days here, but it was getting dark and I needed to get out!

The way out was some hectic 'road'

Interesting wooden sculpture at the Kampong Tourist hostel


The subsequent morning I fueled up and rode the 273 KM to Surakarta, the last 27 KM took 2 hours! On this stretch I witnessed 2 crashes and I’m sure there were countless more with the weather and road conditions. The reason for my rush across Java is that I have a ship to catch from Medan in Northern Sumatra on the 24th of March in order to get to the Thailand – Myanmar border for the 10th of April, for which my guide and permits are booked to cross the country. On this night I paid the final amount for the crossing and locked it in! Myanmar has only recently opened up to tourism, especially recent is the allowance for overland trips such as mine (prior to this most travelers flew their bikes from Thailand to Nepal over the top!). The guide and permits necessary to cross are still ridiculously expensive so I found 8 others in a forum and we are sharing the costs, roughly 900 USD each for 9 days crossing.

I followed this river for over 80 KM through the mountains, what a way to start your day!

2 hours, 27 KM, a lot of swearing in my helmet

Crash #1 - wet railway tracks makes for a nice obstacle

Crash #2 - his lower leg was definitely broken, constant reminders of what can happen


YAY french fries! A nice change from rice and noodles


After the ‘compulsory’ photos with the hotel owners in the morning I made a delayed start on the 333 KM trip to Cirebon. By now I was half way across Java! After another draining day on the road I was 45 KM away from my destination and had just finished a cheese sandwich when I was stopped by what I thought was a police officer at the time, turns out his name is Mas and leads a local biker club and he just had the lights on his bike to make riding easier here (cheeky but effective!). From here I received a private escort into Cirebon and taken straight to the local biker hangout point. I was fed mie goreng and coconut juice and then escorted again to my hotel (after many photos of course). The hotel I wanted was full so the bikers spread out across the city looking for one within my budget, they couldn't find a cheap one so I was taken to this beautiful hotel and they got me a discount! After a few more free drinks with more locals at the hotel I collapsed in bed. What an insane day, I could not believe the immense generosity and hospitality from these guys, I will never forget it!

Tightening some bolts outside a supermarket - both my 5V USB charging ports have also stopped working, only have one 12V socket left


Mas escorting me with his lights and sirens into Cirebon, made the ride a lot faster!

Group photo - one of 1000's I've had in Indonesia haha


After being given countless contacts in Sumatra should I have any issues and being warned to look out for CANNIBALS... today’s destination Jakarta! Only 250 KM away this leg took 8 hours, with 4 of these spent getting through Jakarta and it’s outskirts... my clutch hand and brain were both absolutely fried when I pulled into the hotel which cost an outrageous $31 with the WIFI out of order. I was disappointed in myself for staying here, but I was too tired to continue so I forked out the cash and racked out for the night. An interesting note: Jakarta has toll roads to bypass the traffic, another interesting note: BIKES AREN'T ALLOWED ON THEM, although I tried 3 times... every time I was sent away!

Now I’m sitting in the restaurant in Bandar Lampung, Sumatra. Today I rode from Jakarta to Merak and caught the ferry across (2 hours). Once on Sumatra I discovered my bike still had 4th and 5th gear! The JOY! So that’s it for Java, it had been both my favourite island and least favourite for obvious reasons. Until next time! 

Why are you all on the road!!! Outskirts of Jakarta

More outskirts, this is a 2 way road

I'd had enough, foot paths and bus lanes from now on - the bike and myself were both overheating